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1.3. Lace maker tools

Bobbins are the main tools of a lace maker. Variety of bobbin sizes and forms (Fig.1.24) depends on local traditions of lace making. Original bobbin forms were created for many dozens of years.

Fig.1.24. Bobbins

Lace bobbins are always available at cottage industry. The workshop manager has possibility to order a large party of bobbins [6]. As to individual Russian lace makers working at home it is a problem for them to buy bobbins at retail trade. However there are appropriate suggestions for the World Wide Web users.

Besides bobbins, a lace maker needs a tool kit.

1. A crochet hook (Fig.1.25) is necessary for link lace plating. A hook size depends on thread thickness. For instance linking of twin threads is better to make with a hook № 0.5 or № 0.55. More skilfull work is to be made with a hook № 0.4. For threads named “Snowflake”, “Lily”, “Rose” a hook № 0.6 is to be used.

Fig.1.25. Crochet hooks

2. Embroidery scissors are necessary to cut threads (Fig.1.26).

Fig.1.26 Scissors

3. A thin pricker (an awl) is used often (Fig.1.27).

Fig.1.27. Prickers

Sometimes a pushed pin rests against an obstacle such as an wood chip when the bolster is filled with sawdust. In this case you are to stop pushing a pin to escape bending it and injuring your fingers. The same can happen when the bolster is made of dense plastic. In similar cases all points of the lace pattern are to be pricked previously with an awl.

 

At the 19^th century a pricker was used to copy plated lace on a cardboard as well to make many copies of a lace pattern. The lace was plated from point to point without drawing pattern lines.

If a handy pricker is not available in retail trade you can do it easily of thick needle and a wood stick. The stick is to be boiled previously in water for 10 minutes. Then the blunt end of the needle is to be pressed into the wood handle (Fig.1.28).

 

Fig.1.28. Home made pricker

4. Pins are the mass tool of a lace maker. Long and short pins made of steel or brass have a spherical head (metallic or plastic).

Before plating several dozens of pins are placed on the bolster and on a small pincushion. The rest pins sorted by size and thicness are saved in the special boxes (Fig.1.29).

 

Fig.1.29. Pins and pincushion

Somitimes pins falls out of hands and out of the bolster. They can be found easily on the floor or on the carpet using a permament magnet (Fig.1.30). It very important tool for safety work.

Fig.1.30. Author’s magnet

5. West European and North American lace makers use auxiliary instruments - pin pusher (Fig.1.31), pin-lifter (Fig.1.32) and pusher-lifter (Fig.1.33).

 

Fig.1.31. Pin-pusher

 

Fig.1.32. Pin-lifter

 

Fig.1.33. Pusher-lifter

“Lazy maid” (Fig.1.34) is used for thread linking in places that are difficult to access.

Fig.1.34. Lazy-maid

The pin extractor is called “a vyderga” in Viatka region (Fig.1.35)

Fig.1.35 Pin extractors

The mentioned above tools can be bought apart or as a complete set with scissors and pincers (Fig.1.36).

 

Fig.1.36. Lace maker tool set

6. A clutches for reserved lace bobbins are very useful contrivances. (Fig.1.37, Fig.1.38).

 

Fig.1.37. A volute spring bobbin clamp

 

Fig.1.38. A rubber bobbin clamp

A lace maker can make a simple rubber clamp. It needs a piece of a school wood ruler and a rubber ring used to tighten a batch of bank-notes .

Two slits for rubber ring are to be made at the ends of the ruler (Fig1.39). A clutch holds lace bobbins and prevents threads become entangled during travel with the bolster or for a long interruption of plating. Bobbin clutches are necessary in multi-twin lace technique on mushrooms pillows. The same purpose sometimes is achieved by means a great number of napkins used to interlay bobbins.

Fig.1.39. The home-made bobbin clutch

Lace making becomes more perfect when it is provided with technical contrivances including a rest for a pillow, a bobbin winder and other equipment. However they are too complex to be done by a man who never worked with a drill, a hack-saw and a file.

 

Theoretically it is necessary to be a certificated designer, a mechanical engineer and at the same time a tuner, a joiner, a metalworker, a fitter and so on to create new equipment for bobbin lace making.

 

Of course it would be good to have such splendid professions, but domestic skilled craftsmen quite often disprove this theory. Some of them can invent and make very useful tool for lace maker disposing of limited resources, with restricted tool set and materials. First of all one must have an unbreakable wish to solve a technical task. Besides it is useful to study all former attempts to solve the same task. Personal experience is needed as well. At last a paradox is that some people can find an original decision in spite of generally accepted idea that the task can not be solved at all.

 

2. PILLOW RESTS

2.1. Requirements

In some Southern countries there are national traditions of lace making without rests. Lace makers sit on a carpet or a mate and rotate their bolsters (Fig.2.1).

 

Fig.2.1. Plating on a carpet

Lace makers of European school plate sitting on a chair. On this reason a pillow with pricked pattern is to be lifted at 24-36 inches (60-90 cm) above a floor. A table or a special rest is needed to fix a pillow at the mentioned level.

Due to a rest the bolster takes some position in the Cartesian coordinate system XYZ. Let us suppose that Cartesian axes OX and OY are on the horizontal plane and
directed along the axes of the bolster symmetry; the axe OZ goes through the centre of its gravity (Fig.2.2).

Four parameters of the vector A describe the bolster position:
h - height of the center of gravity above horizontal plane;
azimuth a - an angle of the bolster turning around the axe ОZ;
elevation q - an angle of the bolster inclining to the plane XOY;
heel j - an angle of the bolster turning around its longitudinal axe.

Fig.2.2. The bolster in the cartesian coordinate system

The rest is to allow angle controlling the bolster next way:
- unlimited azimuth turning, i.e. 0 to 360 grades;
- elevation inclining 0 to 30-40 grades;
- heel turning on ± 45 grades.

These are conditions of coupling lace making.

During plating the center of bolster gravity stays unmovable at the height that is choosen according to the bolster diameter, lace maker’s antropology and the chair height. The bolster must stay unmovable despite of any thread tension. On the other hand it must be turned easily when lace maker goes to the next pattern fragment. Hence two contradictory conditions are to be satisfacted:

- cotrollability when the bolster position is being changed;

- hard bolster fixation when lace is being plated.

Great number of bolster rests arose to fulfil both demands. All known rests can be gathered into three groups:

- rests on the horizontal platform;

- retst on the inclined platform;

- rests with the ball hinge.

These groups are listed here in the order of their historical evolution. The first group rests are the most ancient ones and are being used up today. The rests with the inclined platform are known since the 19^th century in Germany. The rests with the ball hinge are used by russian lace makers in Viatka since the second half of the 20^th century.

 

2.2. The rests on a horizontal platform

When a rest is choosen, a lace maker must take care to pevent rolling of the pillow on the surface. For this purpose it is enough to lay something under the pillow, for instance a piece of porolon with edges rolled to form cylinders (Fig.2.3).

 

Fig.2.3. Lining under a cylindrical pillow

Russian province lace makers many years ago used to set a pillow into a basket plated of withy or rolled of birch bark (”lookoshko”). The basket was rested on a stool (Fig.2.4).

Fig.2.4. Kalyazin lace makers
(Е.А.Katsman, 1928)

Quite often any accidental box happens to become a rest. The box is set as well on accidental surface like a chair, a stool or a table. One can find instructions in some manuals how to make the simplest rest for a bolster. It consists of four details: two desks with semicircle cuts and two sticks that join the desks. Authors of the book made their first rest of five desks, spending 30 minutes (Fig.2.5).

Fig.2.5. The first author’s rest for a bolster

A professionally made rest looks much more elegant (Fig.2.6).

Fig.2.6. A professional made rest for a bolster

For the beginning such rest looks well (the first step has been done - plating started!), but soon it becomes evident how the rest is far from ideal one! Really:

- the bolster is to be pulled often out of the rest to rotate pattern at several grades;

- the bolster is to be turned together with the rest on the table;

- it is necessary to put anything under the rest to incline the bolster;

- at last the bolster fidgets in the rest!

However there are no reasons to despair. All self-educated lace makers start at the same manner.

Beginners in Russian traditional lace making centers are tought using rack-”goat”. It is analogous to rack used to saw fire-wood in Russian north villages but looks better because of more skilful work.

The rack is an unpretentious equipment that consists of two rectangle frames joined together with a rotation axe. Typical rack has useful functional properties:

- width of frames allows to set bolsters different at length;

- variable angle between frames allows to set bolsters different in diameters;

An angle between frames is fixed with a ribbon (a cord, a small strap) that binds lower (sometimes - upper) slats of frames. Despite of incomplete accordance to ideal “goat” is prevalent rest type in all Russian provinces due to simplicity, reliability, cheapness of construction. In addition racks are made of local materials - birch wood, pine wood, white spruce (Fig.2.7, Fig.2.8).

Fig.2.7. Vologda province. Master class on the Sheksna riverside

Fig.2.8. “Ryazan lace makers”, V.V.Ageyev (1980 г.)

In Viatka province lace makers use racks that has arched upper slats (Fig.2.9)

Fig.2.9. Viatka rack-goat

European lace makers use racks too. An Italian rack (Fig.2.10) has a peculiarity - frames are different at height.

Fig.2.10. Italian lace makers

Authors of the book tested rack too. Our experience showed that it is enough to be able to use a hack-saw and a drill to make a “goat” in improvised home workshop during 2-3 hours (Fig.2.11).

Fig.2.11. Author’s rack for a bolster

Domestic made “goat” (for bolsters 16 inches in diameter) consists of two frames joined together with two screw-bolts used as half-axes. Frames are made of standard pine-wood flats (section sizes 40×16 mm and 16×16 mm, i.e. 1.57×0.63 and 0.63×0.63 inches). Metallic accessories include six furniture angle bars, two belts (M8, 2 inches in length) and two dozens of screws. The rack is solid and rigid due to construction details:

- plywood triangles that bind side and upper flats;

- horizontal flat that holds half-axes.

It is understandable that described technology is admissible in domestic conditions only to make a single exemplar. If a training class is to be equipped with 10-15 racks or a party of racks is to be delivered to lace makers working at home, rests must be made professionally using another materials, details and stationary workshop equipment.

Junctions of horizontal and vertical slats are subject to the greatest destroying load every time when lace maker inclines the heavy rest towards herself (Fig.2.12).

Fig.2.12. Incline of the rest

At this moment the rest has two fulcra only. Long lever arises for the gravity. Junctions become rickety after multiple inclines for along workday. That’s why such a simple tool must have a great safety margin in mass production.

Stationary rest is a constant equipment of the work place at craft-work or at home. However a portable rest is necessary as well. It would be very useful for a skilful lace maker who gives master-classes and for a pupil who takes lessons of lace making.

At least three types of portable rest can be offered:

- a rest with telescopic movable bearings;

- a rest with revolving (folding) bearings;

- a sectional (split) rest.

Authors of the book chose the third variant (Fig.2.13).

Fig.2.13. Portable rest

Both frames of the rest splits at two approximately equal parts that can be joined without using special instrument in several seconds. It becomes possible due to wing-nuts (Fig 2.14).

Fig.2.14. Dismounted portable rest

The dismounted rest and bolster can be placed easily at the sack (Fig.2.15). There is still enough room for the bobbin set in the same sack. Total pack has sizes 46 х 40 х 18 cm. Its weight is 2.1 kg (without bobbins).

Fig.2.15. The rest and the bolster in the sack

2.3. The rests on an inclined platform

The bolster can get fixed slope in the ring holder (Fig.2.16).

Fig.2.16. The ring holder for a bolster

However it would be better to slope the bolster turning it together with the inclined platform. The rest-”whatnot” was invented for lace makers in Germany (Fig.2.17, Fig.2.18). The upper floor is an inclined disk containing four pivots. The bolster is nested between pivots.

Fig.2.17. The rest with inclined platform. Germany

Fig.2.18. The modern rest with inclined platform

The idea of the Italian table rest (Fig.2.19) proves to be near to the rest used in Germany.

Fig.2.19. A rest with an inclined platform. Italy

The italian designer moved farther - he surmised to variate the platform slope and to set discret meanings of the bolster rotation angle on the platform (Fig.2.20a, Fig.2.20b).

Fig.2.20a. The italian rest View 1

 

Fig.2.20b. The italian rest View 2

 

 

Fig.2.21a. The italian rest

 

 

Authors of the book suggested another decision of the same task (Fig2.21b). Our rest contains the next function units:

- the upper frame;

- an incline platform that is set on the upper frame;

- three control mechanisms setted on the upper frame; the first one regulates bolster revolving on the platform, the second ones controls the platform inclination and the third mechanism variates the bolster height;

- a rack supporting the upper frame;

- a lower frame with two guiding slots for the rack frames;

- a bearing slab for the foots of lace maker.

Fig.2.21b. Author’s rest with incline platform

The bolster has the minimum height when the angle between rack frames is maximum (Fig.2.21). When the frames are squeezed, the bolster lifted maximally (Fig.2.22).

 

Fig.2.22. The maximum height of the bolster

All angle adjustments are discrete:

- the bolster rotates through 360 grades in step 18 grades; the bolster position is fixed with the ratchet;

- the platform is inclined 6 to 30 grades in step 3 grades;

- the bolster center of gravity can be set at height 70 to 80 cm in step 2 cm.

The rest keeps steadiness at any position of the rack frames due to constant square of the lower frame (rectangular 46 x 36 cm).

The rest weight is 4.7 kg (without the bolster and the bearing slab).

The rest is to carry the bolster with parameters: 30-40 cm in length, 20-25 cm in
diameter. Every bolster is nested into an according tray (Fig.2.23), that is placed on the incline platform. Changing of the tray takes 20-30 seconds.

Fig.2.23. The bolster tray

2.4. The rests with the ball hinge

A rack-”goat” has evident shortcoming - a lace maker has to rotate often a heavy bolster around all axes of gyration. Using tool like “a goat” demands outstanding physical endurance when plating takes place all over a workday. But it is completely inadmissible to burden hands busied with the skilful work.

The overload of a lace maker is eliminated when a bolster has a ball hinge with three degrees of gyration freedom. Ideally a center of bolster gravity must coincide with a gyration center. As soon as it is not practicable one must deviate from the ideal cinematic layout. Practically a bolster 1 is set on a platform 2 that is joined with the ball 4 by means a rod 3 (Fig.2.24).

Fig.2.24. Ball hinge of a bolster

In this scheme a bolster is controlled well but moving a center of gravity out of a gyration center hampers fixation of the platform. Long levers L₁ and L₂ arise which demand to create great strength to fix the platform at any given space position. The task becomes a little easier when ball diameter enlarges.

Pillow rest having a ball hinge was invented in Viatka province [8] about 40 years ago (Fig.2.25).

Fig.2.25. The rest with a ball hinge. Viatka province

Many contrivances use a ball hinge, for instance, the rests for a plane-table and an easel (Fig.2.26), the rests for cover plating (Fig.2.27). These devices do not demand often to change position of the table. Rotations are fulfilled inside narrow angle range - about several grades.

Fig.2.26. Plane-table

 

Fig.2.27. Rest for cover plating

Much more diapason is needed in plating of link laces. A bolster is rotated very often, each rotation taking place in range from 10 to 40 grades. On these reasons Russian lace makers can not use devices shown on Fig.2.26 and Fig.2.27.

The construction from Viatka proves to be the best rest for them, but it is created for workshops and stays practically unknown to mass lace makers working at home.

The Viatka rest is ideal as to bolster fixation but its controllability stays unsatisfactory. It is seen on the Fig.2.25 that fixation of the bolster tray is released by pressing brake-pedal. However the rest has nothing to return the pedal at start position. Hence the lace maker has to pull back the pedal lever by her hand to fix the bolster again. Naturally she tries to avoid excessive movements. That is why she finds some intermediate position of lever when it is still possible to turn the bolster by hands but the bolster does not move already when the thread is being stretched. It is clear why all lace makers say that they do not use the brake-pedal, considering it is an excessive detail.

It is curious that the rest exists with the mentioned shortcoming more than 30 years! But this annoying defect of the rest can be easily corrected with pair of springs as it has been done by authors of the book (Fig.2.28).

Fig.2.28. Advanced rest

Improvements of the rest are achieved with the next transformations:

1. The control lever of the ball hinge is enlarged 3.5 times to decrease breaking strength.

2. The staff brake-pedal and its lever are moved away.

3. Some details are added:

- a spring that returns the control lever at start position;

- a driving sheave with pedal to pull the lever.

New details are mounted on the slab that is set under the cross-piece of the original rest. Adjustment of the rest is being made by means of tension of springs.

Now lace maker does not touch the control lever by hand. She presses the pedal and releases the bolster brake. Both springs stretches out and save energy. Lace maker turns the bolster at the new position and releases the pedal. The springs compress and due to released energy return movable details at their normal position. The bolster is being broke again.

Control possibilities depend on the characteristic of the ball hinge braking mechanism (Fig.2.29).

Fig.2.29. Control characteristic of the ball hinge

An ideal characteristic is to be linear with two distinctly expressed points of total braking and total releasing. In fact braking and releasing take place gradually. That is why the rotation angle of the control lever increases approximately from 30 to 70 grades. It means that the sheave (as well as the pedal) rotation angle increases two times.

 

Due to modernization the rest weight is decreased at 23% (20.8 against 27 kg). The rest would be easier, if it projected using modern materials and techniques.

The construction from Vyatka proves to be the best rest for them, but it is created for workshops and stays practically unknown to mass lace makers working at home.

A rest with the ball hinge can be made easily in domestic conditions if one happens to get ready ball joint with braking mechanism inside. Authors of the book have got possibility to buy a hinge named “Kombihalter mit Kugelgelenk” (Fig.2.30) that is produced by the Kaindl Industrie (Germany, www.kaindl.de).

Fig.2.30. Kombihalter mit Kugelgelenk

The firm prompts the mechanism for decision problems that are far from lace making but in the context of the task under discussion the hinge proves to be the main unit of the universal rest. The ready joint can be mounted into the rest after minimal completion. It is necessary only to enlarge the braking handle.

“Universal” means that the rest will fit to set different pillows, including cylindrical and flat ones (bolsters, cookies, mushrooms etc.). The rest I shown on Fig.2.31 and Fig.2.32.

Fig.2.31. The universal rest. View 1

Fig.2.32. The universal rest. View 2

The universal rest acts in the same way as the modified viatka rest. The lace maker presses pedal and release the ball hinge of braking. At this moment the spring becomes longer. The lace maker turns the bolster at some new position and then release the pedal. The spring compresses pulling the break lever at start position. The bolster is being stopped at given position.

The rest stands upon pair of “skis” that are destined to change the hight of a pillow lifting. The skis ase attached to the slab by means of hinges and can take two positions - vertical (upright) or horizontal (flatways). Position changing creates difference in lifting about 12-13 cm (5 inches). The slab sizes are enough to deliver steadiness of the rest when the pillow with the largest sizes is set.

Changable equipment is made as a tray for a bolster (Fig.2.33).

Fig.2.33. Changeable trays for the bolsters

Handles are attached on the sides of the tray to control position of pillow. Two examples of bolsters setting are shown on the photos (Fig.2.34, Fig.2.35).

Fig.2.34. The small bolster setting. The skis are upright

Fig.2.35. The big bolster setting. The skis are flatways

A contrivance for setting of a flat pillow is made as a box with three radial holders on it (Fig.2.36. Fig.2.37). Restrictors are attached at the ends of holders.

Fig.2.36. The tray for a small disk pillow

Fig.2.37. The tray for a big disk pillow