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PREFACE FOR EDITION IN ENGLISH

Bobbin lace making is an attractive handicraft for many people all over the world nowadays. It would not be overstatement to say - lace making is on the rise again. This fact explains general interest in any information about lace making including patterns, lace techniques, tools and equipment.

This book is an attempt to consider problems concerning technical support of lace making. The beginners and experienced lace makers need equipment for productive and comfortable labour. First of all it is necessary for them to have pillow sets and devices for winding bobbins. These devices are elucidated here including models published in various books, in the WWW, also author’s original models.

Russian lace makers came across a specific problem that is seemed unknown to somebody else. The essence of the matter is the very thin thread is necessary for “viatka” laces. They have to get it by untwisting standard “moulinet”. For this reason automation of untwisting takes considerable part of the manual. It is destined in the main to russian readers. However it can quite happen the original constructive decisions arise inerest of somebody else. Authors hope that the rest parts of the manual will prove to be useful and interesting not only for russian lace makers.

 

1. EQUIPMENT AND TOOLS FOR BOBBIN LACE MAKING

As far as basic ideas and definitions of lace making are reffered to in the next sections of the book, the first chapter contains brief information concerning lace techniques, threads, tools and equipment used by lace makers.

 

1.1. Bobbin lace techniques

An encyclopedical definition is known [11]: “Lace is a net through fabric that consists of thread ornamental pattern interlacing (linen, cotton, wool, silk). There are laces that are embroidered by a needle, plated with bobbins, hook, knitting needle, shuttle and machine-maid”.

No fabric can be compared with bobbin laces which have much more complex ornamental patterns, impress elegancy and airness in the best examples.

Bobbin lace making is high skilled labour. It requires a plenty of time, concentration and perseverance. These are reasons to estimate laces highly. Besides one has to waste years to gain wide experience in lace making. Teaching lace is prolonged multi-stage process conducted by a tutor who can open know-how including local, regional and personal secrets of lace making.

There are three bobbin lace techniques in Russia:

1. Coupling lace. A pattern is made with a little pairs of bobbins - from 6 to 12. A hook is used to link basic pattern and background net.

2. Twin (or multi-twin) lace. A basic pattern and lace background are plaited simulta-niously. A lace consists of repeating motives. Amount of pairs depends of lace width and can reach dozens. Plaiting of unique laces (headscarvess, neckscarves) in the twin technique is the most laborous because require many hundreds of pairs.

3. Numeric lace. It is simple handsome lace plaited by a few pairs. It is known in Russia since the 15^th centure. Numeric lace used to be plaited without a pattern, twisting threads by heart. Patterns passed from hand to hand.

However since the second half of the 20^th century prickings were used also in the numerical techiqees to save patterns and put mastery to many apprentices.

An algorithm of bobbin lace making remains the same during centuries [1, 2, 4, 5, 7]. There are five basic stages of plaiting.

Stage 1. A lace pattern is created at first (Fig.1.1). It has other name - a pricking. A pricking used to be a result of a complex process that requires skill, good taste, creative fantasy, know-how in details of lace techiques. Above all, a pattern is recognized in many countries as an object of author right nowadays.

Fig.1.1. The pricking of link lace (author’s work)

Stage 2. A pricking enforced by a cardboard or hard paper is set on a pillow by means of pins.

Stage 3. The thread is wound on a bobbin tightly and regularly (two or more layers). Bobbins are always linked in pairs: the thread begins on the first bobbin and ends on the second one.

Stage 4. Dozens of pins are pricked in the points of the lace pattern where plaiting is in progress. Pins are necessary to fasten threads forming the lace (Fig.1.2). As soon as the current lace fragment is plaited, pins are lifted and pricked into the next part of the pattern.

Fig.1.2. Coupling lace, 12 pairs (author’s work)

Stage 5. Lace maker plaits an ornament according to the pattern holding several pairs of bobbins in each hand (Fig.1.3, Fig.1.4). This technique is called “cupped hand plating”. None deformation of lace pattern is allowed.

Fig.1.3. Plaiting. Vologda

Fig.1.4. Cupped hand plating. Lombardia

Some pecularities of lace technique depend on pattern’s structure. Multi-twin lace with regular structure that contains multiplicated fragments of a pattern is called “rythmical” lace. Reiteration of pattern is named “rapport” (in French - repeating pattern of fabric, embroidery, wallpaper). When rhythmical lace is being plaited lace maker rotates a bolster pillow “off herself”, lifts pins out of the plaited part of pricking and pushes them into the next part of pattern.

Wide lace linen is being plated at all width of a pricking from top downwards (Fig.1.5, Fig.1.6).

Fig.1.5. Rythmical lace platig. The typical set of hands

Fig.1.6. Rythmical lace platig. Another manner to hold bobbins

In link lace tecniques a bolster pillow is dealt with otherwise. As soon as a pricking is fastened on a pillow and plaiting direction changes, the pillow is to be turned periodically around one, two or three axes at some angle to pass from one to another part of the pattern.

A plaitng is a long and protracted process. For the reason a lace maker is to keep thread and lace always clean. First of all one ought to keep clean hands and bobbins. Every plaited lace part is to be protected with a rag pricked with pins on the pilllow. To escape damage or dirtying all lace and pillow are to be covered with a piece of fabric cover-cloth at all interruption times.

The finished lace needs no further processing and is ready to be used immediately if all techniques and cleannes measures are kept strictly. However in some Russian provinces ready laces are sometimes starched to toughen them.

The survey of bobbin lace techniques reveals tools and equipments are needed to support plaiting. Let us see them in details.

1.2. Lace pillows

There is a greate variety of shapes and sizes of pillows.

In west and north European countries and in north America flat pillows are used:

- rectangular, square (Fig.1.7);

Fig.1.7. Rectangular pillow

- round (Fig.1.8, Fig.1.9 , Fig.1.10);

Fig.1.8. Round cored pillow

Fig.1.9. Round flat pillow (”cookie”, “mushroom”)

Fig.1.10. Semicircular pillow

- compound sectional (Fig.1.11).
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Fig.1.11. Pillow mounted of rectangular blocks

- cylindrical (Fig.1.12, Fig.1.13);

Fig.1.12. Cylindrical pillow

Fig.1.13. Cylindrical pillow. Puerto Rico

In south, central and east European countries (Italy, Greece, Germany, Slovakia, Czechia, Russia) soft cylindrical pillows (bolsters) are spread (Fig.1.14). Local names of pillows can be found in Russia provinces - “buben” (a tamburine), “baraban” (a drum), “koutooz”, “kooftyr”.

Fig.1.14. Bolster pillow. Germany

In France and Sweden combined mushroom-roller pillow are used for plaiting of rythmical lases (Fig.1.15, Fig.1.16).

Fig.1.15. Combined pillow

Fig.1.16. Combined pillow

A lace pillow is a contrivance that can be made by lace makers without assistance.

It is known from the books containing historical review of lace making in Russia and abroad that bolster pillows were made formerly as sacks filled with tightly rammed hay or straw.

Sawdust of non-coniferous (non-resinous) wood is used as filling material as well. Sawdust is sorted and screened to move off chips and large wood fractions before filling a sack. Surface of pillow must be flat and even. For the purpose a sack is filled gradually, ramming every layer of sawdust. The best ramming tool is a plastic bottle filled with water. Sawdust may be shaken down during lace making. For that reason it is to be added into a pillow periodically.

If sawdust is not available it can be substituted by alder tree shaving that is sold in pet-shops as material for domestic rodent animals.

When none natural filling material can be found, a bolster pillow is made of synthetic leaf materials formed as a cylinder. There are many sorts of porous plastic used to warm walls and tubes in building industry.

A bolster with synthetic materials consists of a cylindrical framework wrapped around with porous plastic. A plastic bottle (from 10 to 16 inches at length, volume from 1 to 2 gallons) can serve as a framework for a little pillow. Several simple actions are to be made to produce a bolster pillow.

1. Cut off a bottle neck.

2. Measure the bottle sizes and calculate sides of a rectangular according cylindrical surface of the bottle. Cut the first rectangular layer out of porous plastic.

3. Wrap the first layer around the bottle and fasten edges at one level with a sticky ribbon. Edge connection at different levels (one above another) is not allowed.

4. Cut out the next rectangle for the second layer according sizes of the first one. Join leaf edges at one level as well.

5. Wrap the bottle with the third and the next layers. Amount of layers depends on thickness of plastic leaf. A pin that is pushed into the pillow must not rest against the bottle. For the purpose total thickness of plastic layers is to be 10-20 mm more than pin length. For instance five layers are needed if pin length is equal 1.2 inch using 8 mm plastic leaf.

6. Shut butt-ends of the bolster with disks cut of the same plastic.

Notes.

1. No framework is needed if a training bolster diameter is less than 20 cm (8 inches). Hardness of multi-layer plastic is quite enough to deliver cylindrical form of a bolster.

2. An office cooler bottle is recommended as a framework for a big bolster if a pillow diameter is to be more then 14 inches (Fig.1.17). A wood “squirrel cage” can be used as a bolster framework.

Fig.1.17. Cooler bottle as a framework

Two covers are to be put on the bolster - constant (inner) and changeable (external). The last one is to be refreshed every time when the finished lace is taken away from the bolster.

Sizes of rectangular fabric rag for the cover are calculated the next way. Length of the first side:

X₁ = 2pR + P,

where: R - bolster radius;

P - margin for tucking (about 2 cm or 0.8 inch).

Inner cover value of X₁ is to be enlarged on 0.5 cm (0.2 inch) and the external one on 1 cm (0.4 inch) when a cover is put on a bolster of porous material. It is necessary to put the cover easily on the bolster.

 

Length of the second side of the rectangle:

X₂ = L + 2T + 2K,

where: L - bolster length;
T - an addition for butt-end (1/3 or 2/3 of a bolster radius,
as an executor perceives);
K - tucking margin for a chord.
Notes.

1. It is recommended to sponge the rag before it cut out to escape possible changes of cover sizes after washing.

2. The best material for a cover is linen or cotton fabric of light colors.

3. Plastic bolsters turns out too easy. It is recommended to enlarge mass of the bolster up to 2-3 kg. For the purpose it is necessary to put into the bolster cavity a bottle or a little sack filled gravel or sand (Fig.1.18).

Fig.1.18. Training bolster with an additional mass

A lace maker is to choose herself the best variant of bolster manufacturing and taste it because advices are to be followed critically.

Pillows mentioned above are used in permanent establishment for instance at worksop, cottage industry or at home. However it can be happened that plaiting started at one place is to be continued at another one. For instance a training lace is plaited at home but it is to be finished and shown to a teacher at school. Sometimes a lace maker accomplishes forced trip.

that must not interrupt plaiting for a long time. Under such “fild” circumstances a portable bolster proves to be very handy to plait rythmical laces (Fig.1.19, Fig.1.20).

Fig.1.19. The portable pillow

Fig.1.20. The portable pillow

A lace maker can sew a sack-”banana” for a portable bolster. Authors of the book suggest their variant of a sack (Fig.1.21).

Fig.1.21. A sack for a portable bolster

“A bandoleer” for 12 pair of bobbins is a good supplement to a portable bolster in link technique. It is needed to set accurately bobbins on a bolster to stave off thread rupture and entangle during travel. Bobbins are fastened at “a corset” (Fig.1.22) that is put on a bolster (Fig.1.23).

Fig.1.22. A corset

 

 

Fig.1.23.A bandoleer for bobbins